Can India Reclaim Its Perfume Glory?

The $62 billion global fragrance industry runs on synthetics. But one country’s ancient, natural traditions are gaining ground.

GettyImages-152260606 roses perfumes fragrance
Indian farmers pick flowers at a farm in Kannauj, the perfume capital of India. Traditional workers are struggling to keep their craft alive in the face of fierce competition from modern fragrance makers. (AFP PHOTO/ SAJJAD HUSSAIN/GettyImages)

Jaishree Kumar

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May 13, 2025

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9 min

Imagine fast food chain Subway without its trademark bread scent, W hotels without that citrusy smell in its lobby, or HeyTea chains without its hint of floral jasmine. Smell is one of the most memorable elements of any experience, shaping how we remember places, people, and time. It’s something companies try, but often fail, to bottle up, and has created a $62 billion global perfume market

But the industry has also faced growing scrutiny. Did you know Victoria’s Secret signature scent, Bombshell, can repel mosquitoes due to ingredients comparable to DEET? Or that most shampoos, soaps, or body washes might list “parfum” as an ingredient, but it’s often a stand-in for synthetic fragrances, ranging from endocrine disruptors to formaldehyde-releasing agents?

Enter: the clean beauty revolution. As today’s consumers grow more wary of putting harmful chemicals on their bodies, some say the answer has been with us all along — a millennia-old solution that might be the subcontinent’s best-kept secret.

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